Jewellery in hand

Brune Boyer is inspired by the ring of Prometheus to make objects that are cupped in the hand.

As a contemporary jewellery maker, I create pieces that explore the relationship between body and jewel. « Variations » pieces are in the continuity of works started years ago which respond to the desire to share different sensations when they are held in the hands.

The objects for the hand I’ve realized are made of different materials chosen for the sensation they produce. The density of fine gold allows me to create small pieces of jewellery that have a substantial weight in the hand and even though it isn’t attached to the body—the wearer has really to hold the piece at all times—this presence prevents falling down. The boxwood can be highly polished, which results in a very soft feeling so that one to keep holding the object.

In 2013, I placed an emerald-on-pegmatite in the palm of my hands. A questioning look at the jewellery evoked by the emerald arose, as well as a memory of the first ring ever set with a stone. Indeed, the mythological story tells that Zeus accepted Prometheus’ deliverance on the condition that he wear a ring. Made of the metal from his chains and set with a Caucasian stone, this was the first ring set with a stone. I’ve designed a setting for the emerald as a handcuff, but wearing it proved more ambiguous: the weight of the stone in the hands provokes a comforting sensation.

Allégorie

The mythological story tells that Zeus accepted Prometheus’ deliverance on condition that he wear a ring. Made of the metal of his chains and set with a Caucasian stone, this was the first ring set with a stone. The jewel constrains the body as much as it invites contemplation.

In 2022, I repeated this work with three pieces of jewellery to respond to an invitation for a show called « Bling ring ». For me, the expression « Bling ring » referred to the ostentatious aspect the jewel sometimes can take(s). I then decided to make shiny and seductive pieces with stones (or pearl) which attracted my attention. Each one inspired me with the shape of the “ring”: the pearl needed a sheltering space in order to be protected, the heaviness and the cut of the pyrite needed two hands to hold it, the big pink quartz needed a space around it to let it all shine. Three gestures emerged. Even though I have abandoned the idea of handcuffing the body, the desire to invite a particular gesture remains present. It is a way to ask which body institutes a jewel that constrains as much as it comforts. If somebody wishes to wear a “Bling ring” then it’s not really possible to pursue a daily life, go around and show off the big piece of jewellery he or she owns. My “bling rings” put the wearer in front of his-her intimacy, to confront their own thoughts and feelings and invite to meditation and dreams more than they offer an ostentatious appearance..

Intimacy, 2021

Silver and pearl

Vibration, 2021

Quartz and silver-2022 ©Loic-Benoit